Gastronomica

Editorial Letter | Robert T. Valgenti

AUTHENTI-CITIES
“A War Could be Going on Outside, and You Wouldn’t Even Know”: Performing Israeli Cuisine in a London Restaurant | Natasha Bernstein Bunzl

Bishakh Important Hoi (Trust Is Important): Masculinities, Trust, and the “Assamese” Pithas | Pooja Kalita

Food in the Shanghai Lockdown | Anna Greenspan

SUSTAIN-ABILITIES
Transformation Processes toward Low-Impact Pleasure: Rethinking Culinary Art with Karen Blixen’s “Babette’s Feast” (1950) | Sophie Wennerscheid

Mammoths, Metabolism, and Meta-Species: Controlling Biological Time in the Regimes of Lab-Grown Protein | Hallam Stevens

Remaking the Qualities of Turkish Olive Oil | Brian Silverstein

COMMEMO-RATIONS
Sacred Leftovers: Hosting and Eating after the Ancestors | Indira Arumugam

Swarn: A Tangled History of a Simple Dish | Jason A. Reuscher

Mr. De la Rosa’s Agua de Jamaica | Sandra Trujillo

REVIEWS
Staging the Table in Europe: 1500–1800 by Deborah L. Krohn, reviewed by Ken Albala

The Upstairs Delicatessen: On Eating, Reading, Reading about Eating, and Eating while Reading by Dwight Garner, reviewed by Jessica Carbone

The Political Relevance of Food Media and Journalism: Beyond Reviews and Recipes, edited by Elizabeth Fakazis and Elfriede Fürsich

Cooling the Tropics: Ice, Indigeneity, and Hawaiian Refreshment by Hi‘ilei Julia Kawehipuaakahaopulani Hobart, reviewed by Mascha Gugganig

The Secret of Cooking: Recipes for an Easier Life in the Kitchen by Bee Wilson, reviewed by KC Hysmith

Embrace by Rohina Hoffman, reviewed by Mohini Mehta

Editorial Letter | Amy B. Trubek

THE POWER OF JAPANESE SWEETS AND SWEETENERS
Amai: Sweets and Sweeteners in Japanese History | Eric C. Rath and Takeshi Watanabe

Tasteful Messages from Heian Japan: Akazome Emon’s Food Poems | Takeshi Watanabe

Mochi for a Doomed Prince: Sweetness in a Twelfth-Century Japanese Celebration | Emily Warren

It Gives the Rice a Kick: Sweetness and Kōji in Early Modern Sake Brewing | Eric C. Rath

The Empire’s Sweet Tooth: The Making of Western-Style Confectionery in Colonial Taiwan | Lillian Tsay

EVOKING TASTE(S) THROUGH UNUSUAL NOMENCLATURES
Understanding Modern Wine Tasting and the Geosensorial Method with Julien Camus | Charlie Leary

Of Eggplant, Ham, and Identity: A Reading of Alcázar’s “Tres cosas me tienen preso” | Michael Hammer

Convenience Store, Corner Store | Catherine L. Mah

MEMORABLE TASTES
What Does Food Sustain? Family, Class, and Culture in South Asian Identity-Making | Elora Halim Chowdhury

Remembering Cruz Miguel Ortíz Cuadra: The Legacy of Puerto Rico’s Food Historian | Melissa Fuster and Crystal Díaz

REVIEWS
Feeding Fascism: The Politics of Women’s Food Work by Diana Garvin, reviewed by Carole Counihan

Smothered and Covered: Waffle House and the Southern Imaginary by Ty Matejowsky, reviewed by A. Blake Denton

Making Better Coffee: How Maya Farmers and Third Wave Tastemakers Create Value by Edward F. Fischer, reviewed by Alyssa A. James

Philanthrocapitalism and the Erosion of Democracy: A Global Citizens’ Report on the Corporate Control of Technology, Health, and Agriculture, edited by Vandana Shiva, reviewed by Teresa Mungazi

The Anthropocene Cookbook: Recipes and Opportunities for Future Catastrophes by Zane Cerpina and Stahl Stenslie, reviewed by Adam Sella

Have You Eaten Yet? Stories from Chinese Restaurants around the World by Cheuk Kwan, reviewed by Koby Song-Nichols

Editorial Letter | Lisa Haushofer

LOST PLACES
Lessons from a Kangaroo | Kelly Donati

From a Hailstorm: Vines, Wines, and Factories in the Alto Piemonte | Daniel E. Bender

Things Left Behind | Nancy Sommers

LOCAL FOODS
Gourmet and the Ghetto: The “Foodification” of Rome’s Historic Jewish Quarter | Sean Wyer

Ancient Greenwashing: On Food Justice and Civilizations in the Supermarket | Chelsea Fisher and Clara Albacete

Confronting Sustainability: An Ethnography of Sustainability on Elite British Chefs | Jed Hilton

DIVIDED SPHERES

What Rats Reveal about Cooking in Late Medieval Japan | Eric C. Rath

Not Just Any Drupe | Jo Podvin

Being Butter | Jo Podvin

REVIEWS
Early Jewish Cookbooks: Essays on Hungarian Jewish Gastronomical History by András Koerner, reviewed by Jonathan Brumberg-Kraus

Food Information, Communication and Education: Eating Knowledge, edited by Simona De Iulio and Susan Kovacs, reviewed by Lexi Earl

States of Subsistence: The Politics of Bread in Contemporary Jordan by José Ciro Martinez, reviewed by Katharina Graf

Anxious Eaters: Why We Fall for Fad Diets by Janet Chrzan and Kima Cargill, reviewed by Chad Lavin

Ingredients for Revolution: A History of American Feminist Restaurants, Cafes and Coffeehouses by Alex D. Ketchum, reviewed by Kristin Plys

Healing Grounds: Climate, Justice, and the Deep Roots of Regenerative Farming by Liz Carlisle, reviewed by Leslie Spencer

Editorial Letter | Jaclyn Rohel

URBAN TRANSFORMATIONS

New York Palimpsest: Berenice Abbott’s Depression-Era Foodscape | Rick Halpern

Resistances from a Stubborn Past: London’s Fading Eel, Pie, and Mash Shops | Stuart Freedman

Tea Art: Reconfiguring Ethics in Contemporary Urban China | Thiago Braga

Tasting the “Future of Food” on a Bay-Area Cellular Agriculture Tour | Sarah-Louise Ruder, Evan Bowness, Angela McIntyre, Atlanta Grant, and Lenore Newman

WORK & PLAY
Truita de pedres, a Catalan Recipe for Visualizing Women’s Domestic Work | Cristina Fernández Recasens

“She’s Afraid of Gaining Weight and Losing Her Husband”: Affective Political Ecology and the Sociality of Disordered Eating in Rural Appalachia | Annie Koempel

Cooking Up a Distinctly Singaporean Tamil Cuisine | Indira Arumugam

Breaking the Mold: How Jell-O Helped Women Get Creative in the Kitchen | Julia Segal

MARKET VALUES

Fertile Ground Food Cooperative: Building a Black-Led Grocery Store in a Southern City | Ajamu Amiri Dillahunt-Holloway

Nostalgia and the Protection of White Supremacy at a Public Farmers’ Market | Angela Babb, Megan Betz, Sang-hyoun Pahk, and Isis Smith

The Value of the Taiwanese Caishichang: A Photo Essay | Ellen Meiser

REVIEWS

The Delicacy, a film by Jason Wise, reviewed by Shingo Hamada

What a Mushroom Lives For: Matsutake and the Worlds They Make by Michael J. Hathaway, foreword by Anna Lowenhaupt Tsing, reviewed by Jakob Klein

Violent Appetites: Hunger in the Early Northeast by Carla Cevasco, reviewed by Dana Landress

Fermented Foods: The History and Science of a Microbiological Wonder by Christine Baumgarthuber, reviewed by Molly McConnell

Feasting and Fasting in Opera: From Renaissance Banquets to the Callas Diet by Pierpaolo Polzonetti, reviewed by Sadie Menicanin

A Short History of Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce by Massimo Montanari, translated by Gregory Conti, reviewed by Rosaria Moretti

Editorial Letter | James Farrer

PAIRINGS

Diptychs from Las Californias | Jess Stephens

AUTHENTICITIES

Theorizing Authenticity: Introduction to the Special Section | Lauren Crossland-Marr and Elizabeth L. Krause

Authentic Possibilities: Uncommon Lessons from Slow Figs and Fast Fashion | Elizabeth L. Krause

Authenticity and Its Perils: Who Is Left Out When Food Is “Authentic”? | Jillian R. Cavanaugh

Quality and Genuineness in the World of Sicilian Olive Oil | Amanda Hilton

Crafting Futures through Cheese-Making in Val Taleggio (Northern Italy) | Cristina Grasseni

TEMPORALITIES

Toward a Poetics of Chile . . . in Another Mexico | Victor Valle

Setting the Table for Friendship | Janita Van Dyk

Kitchen Bytes: The Retrofuturism of Kitchen Computers and Robots | Alex Ketchum

BORDERS

The Map and the Menu: Julia Child and Changing Definitions of the US Frontier | Blake Allmendinger

From Panocha to Fudge: Mexican Roots of an American Candy | Patrick Charbonneau and Jeffrey M. Pilcher

Recreating Colonial Mexican Fudge: Panochita in the Culinaria Kitchen Laboratory | Patrick Charbonneau, Kelsey Kilgore, and Jeffrey M. Pilcher

REVIEWS

Tainted Tap: Flint’s Journey from Crisis to Recovery by Katrinell M. Davis, reviewed by Alison Hope Alkon

Meat the Future , a flim by Liz Marshall, reviewed by Joel Dickau

Gastropolitics and the Specter of Race: Stories of Capital, Culture, and Coloniality in Peru by María Elena García, reviewed by Joseph P. Feldman

The Scarcity Slot: Excavating Histories of Food Security by Amanda Logan, reviewed by Joeva Sean Rock

Diners, Dudes, and Diets: How Gender and Power Collide in Food Media and Culture by Emily J. H. Contois, reviewed by Ana Tominc